October has an unmistakable scent: that of the woods after the rain, of chestnut burrs falling to the ground, and of kitchens where soups and simmering pots return to the stove. It is the month when autumn arrives at the table with its most anticipated treasures, and among the first to appear is the porcini mushroom. Just a few days after the late-summer rains, the forest transforms: beneath the leaves, tucked between chestnut and oak trees, round, firm porcini emerge with their signature aroma of damp earth. They sprout quickly and must be harvested right away.

In the Mantuan plains, meanwhile, the exact opposite happens: here, time is measured in months and years inside a dairy, where wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO rest on wooden shelves and slowly learn to become what they are. 

They seem like two opposing worlds—one fast, one slow. Yet, when they meet on the plate, it becomes clear they speak the same language. This is the first of four features dedicated to autumn produce and the Consorzio Gourm.it cheeses that accompany them. To understand why porcini and Parmigiano complement each other so well, let us start where the cheese is born.

Latteria Sociale Gonfo: Our Local Parmigiano Reggiano

Latteria Sociale Gonfo is located in Motteggiana, in the province of Mantua, right on the border between Lombardy and Emilia-Romagna. It is the dairy responsible for crafting Parmigiano Reggiano PDO for the Gourm.it Consortium. Situated in a flat, deeply agricultural land irrigated by the Po River and its tributaries, this distinct terroir is one of the key elements shaping the quality of its cheese. The dairy’s cheesemaking tradition dates back to the beginning of the last century. Over time, it evolved into a cooperative that, starting in the 1960s, saw a significant increase in milk production, today crafting around 160 wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO every day. Parmigiano from Gonfo is made today just as it was in the past: using milk from its area of origin, natural rennet, salt, and absolutely no additives. 

Recognition has certainly followed: at the World Cheese Awards, it has earned multiple medals over the years, including gold in 2017 with the 30-month, in 2018 with the 24-month, and in 2023 with the over 40-month maturation.

The Secret Is Umami

Why do Parmigiano and porcini mushrooms pair so exceptionally well? Because of an extraordinary molecular affinity. Both are rich in umami—the fifth taste—which provides a deep, savory richness, roundness, and long-lasting finish. 

In Parmigiano Reggiano PDO, umami develops during aging: enzymes break down milk proteins into free amino acids, including glutamic acid (glutamate), the key compound responsible for umami. 

In porcini mushrooms, glutamate is accompanied by ribonucleotides, molecules that naturally enhance its intensity. 

Brought together, Parmigiano and porcini create a true synergy of flavor: the tastes do not simply add up—they amplify one another.

Two Ways to Bring It to the Table

1. Raw Porcini with Shaved 24-Month Parmigiano Reggiano PDO (Serves 2, appetizer)

• 200 g fresh porcini mushrooms, small and firm
• 60 g Parmigiano Reggiano PDO (aged 24 months)
• Extra virgin olive oil, fresh lemon juice, fine salt

Clean the porcini with a soft brush or a damp cloth without submerging them in water. Slice them paper-thin lengthwise and arrange them on a serving plate. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil, a few drops of lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Top with shaved Parmigiano Reggiano and serve immediately. It is a dish that needs nothing else: just two exceptional ingredients and their natural harmony.

2. Parmigiano Reggiano PDO Rind Broth with Porcini (Serves 4, warm dish)

• 150–200 g Parmigiano Reggiano PDO rinds
• 300 g fresh porcini mushrooms (stems for the broth, caps for the topping)
• 1.2 liters water, 1 onion, extra virgin olive oil, 1 clove of garlic, fresh parsley, salt

Scrape the outer layer of the rinds and wash them thoroughly. Place them in a pot with the water, the onion, and the chopped porcini stems. Simmer gently over low heat for about an hour until the rinds soften and infuse the broth with rich flavor. Strain the broth. In a separate skillet, sauté the sliced porcini caps with olive oil, a clove of garlic, and fresh parsley. Ladle the hot broth into bowls, top with the sautéed porcini, and finish with a few shaved curls of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO. This recipe embodies the philosophy of zero waste: the rind, which usually gets discarded, becomes the soul of the dish.